Skip to main content

Kamanjab


Saturday morning, the girls and I left the brothel, I mean hostel, and walked back over to the guest house where the men slept. We were told to be there by 6:30 so that we could get a good head start on to the bush. Well, we knocked on their door and heard a lot of shuffling and a groan to "come back in 30 minutes". Not morning people apparently!

Two hours later, we were off to the big store in Windhoek and then towards Himba Land. 

We only made it as far as Kamanjab by the time night fell so we pit stopped there for the night. Safe to say, it was one of the most memorable nights of my life We laid a tarp on the floor of a gas station, circled our cars around us, and slept under the African night sky. It was so hot, I felt I didn't even need a blanket. It was off and on sleeping; I think I only got 4 hours max. Between jet lag, loud 24-hour shift gas station attendants, and a crazy drunk guy doing donuts in the street, it was a rough but hilarious night. When I have more time, the full story is a hoot. 


The next morning, we woke up with the sun, the roosters, the donkeys, and the rest of Africa, and headed to Opuwo, the nearest city to our Himba tree (aka home for the next 5-6 weeks). We picked up one translator in Opuwo named Precious and then landed in the bush. We set up two ridiculously hard tents and then David and three others left back for Windhoek to return 2 of the trucks. It was kind of a funny situaton we were in. 9 American students left in the bush with no way to communicate with the people that would come and watch us for hours and basically jumping in to full Survivor mode. We make all of our meals over a fire and have no showers. We became very resourceful when we realized we had no pots for cooking and no can opener to open the giant can of baked beans. It was quite an adventurous 2 1/2 days. Thankfully on the third day, the rest of the crew arrived again and we felt at ease.

That is when the research started.



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Going Native

As tradition follows for the BYU Namibia Field Study, all of the girls are invited over to a homestead of some women and allowed to dress up in traditional garb. For the Himba, this encompasses the red okre butter that they apply to their skin called “otjize” as well as goat skin skirts and skin head dresses. Then there are the woven belts, necklaces, and bracelets. We purchased some of the otjize rocks in Opuwo and brought them to start grinding. Marahoraguapi helped me grind it into a fine red powder. This stuff stains EVERYTHING and we wanted to get to be as close to a real native woman so we wore our bras and shorts. I was the first to get covered in the red paste and those women put it on thick—especially on my face. Not gonna lie, I looked really scary with my bright green eyes and white teeth against a shocking deep red skin. Our translators came along with us and Nicki in particular said that she couldn’t even look at me for a while because I was so freaky looking!...

NGOMBO—Stanley & Todd

If you remember from the Night from Hell that happened in our little camp, Boone brought a black goat to our camp and slammed it on the ground saying, “Should I kill it right now?” The story of Stanley (who turned out to be a girl) continues on to the next day when we actually slaughtered the thing. Jason, his friend, and Hartley (our translators) were the head honchos in slaughtering our goats. I’m not gonna lie, as we tried to eat our dinner of canned beans, I lost my appetite the closer we got to slaughtering the poor beast and when they stabbed the knife into it’s neck and drained the blood into a can, I freaked. Thankfully I kept most of my chill and didn’t want to look away just so I could say that I saw them slaughter a goat in our camp. People took turns skinning it and then we pulled out the machete to hack it down the middle. Gruesome but fascinating. When they split the thing open, Jason pulled a joke and pretended to predict the forecast by looking into its entr...

Funerals & Witches

So, witch craft is the driving force in this village among the Himba and Hakawona and the longer we stick around to observe these people, the more juicy the witch craft stories get. They call it "omiti". Our second week here, a Himba woman died and so we attended the week+ long festivities at their homestead. We missed the burial for that one because nobody knows how to relay details or plans because most people don't even know what day, month, or time it is. Basically there are three hours of the day: Sun rise, sun in middle of sky, and sunset. No such thing as "plans" here! Well, our third week had a Hakawona woman die. As we had learned previously, nobody just dies of natural causes here. It is always because of a curse that somebody else had put on them. Then begins the fun of finding out who the jealous witch is that killed them! (I find myself incredibly frustrated over here because innocent people are blamed and beaten over a belief that omiti is real...